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The worst part of a holiday to Mallorca is getting there. At least with the no frills low cost carriers (Ryanair EasyJet etc) simply because of the range of travellers going there. A delightful mix of families, screaming kids, boozy teens and young adults, and those doing their best to avoid all of them. We are very much the latter and I honestly can’t think of anywhere worse than on a Ryanair flight to the Med. Fortunately, once landed in Palma, we can all go our own way, and interaction should be more or less minimal once we’re set on the ground.
For me, this would be my first visit to southern Spain since my teen years when I ticked off a number of destinations like Ibiza (twice), Costa Bravo and the Costa del Sol. Before I discovered long-haul flights and ultimately the rest of the world. Tbh I never thought I would venture back either, but Fanfan, being Thai, is completely new to the islands and resorts of southern Spain and my mum got her into watching “A Place in the Sun”. It was inevitable. Anyway, check out our week in Mallorca in September video journal below and for international travellers you’ll likely need an esim for Spain if you haven’t got one. For our guide to Schengen Visa applications in the UK here.
September in Mallorca
So I am again back to the Spanish Balearics, starting with the largest island of Mallorca, famous for such delightful beach resorts as Magaluf (which we are certain to avoid). Instead we are hoping to find some charm in Mallorca, away from mass tourism and package holiday resorts, which I was skeptical of before arriving. But I can always entrust Fanfan with this as she sets out to find the best areas to stay in Mallorca as well as affordable hotels for the more discerning of travellers. Finger’s crossed.
The least likely time for us to travel is peak tourist season as we opt instead for the shoulder seasons when destinations are a lot less crowded. This goes more so with those better know party destinations which tbh goes for most of Spain’s beach and island resorts. So instead we travel to Mallorca in September when the schools/students are back indoors and the island has calmed a bit following its peak time summer crowds.
Normally off peak travel brings other benefits (aside from dodging the crowds), including discount hotel prices, for example, only we find prices to still be comparable to peak times in Mallorca in September. Otherwise the weather was better suited to us, as we prefer a milder climate, given we live half the year in constant 30’c+ heats in Thailand. It’s more mid-20s in Mallorca in September.
Port de Soller
After flight delays including police escorts for unruly passengers on our flight we finally arrived late to Palma de Mallorca Airport. Our first destination is Port de Soller, but checking Uber, the fares would be around 75 Euros, so we jump on the bus routes instead. It does take an hour or so extra but it costs only 9.50 Euros each (5 Euros to Espanya Station then 4.50 Euros to Port de Soller on bus 204). It is then a leisurely walk to find pretty much all the hotels in the area.
First Impressions
For the first night we stay in the Marina Hotel found at the far end of the port meaning we have to pass the seafront stretch of restaurants and bars which are winding down for the night. We arrive at around 11:00 when it’s comparatively quiet and serene bar a handful of small gatherings at bars and restaurants on one side and the ebbing waves on the other. No banging music, and it’s just a complete contrast to what you may expect from other parts of Mallorca.
Having arrived late, we didn’t have much time to enjoy the first hotel stay before checkout, at least we didn’t make use of the spa facilities and balcony views over the port (we booked mountain views knowing the late check in). But the location is perfect for breakfast on the seafront promenade where we are joined by a more mature crowd than expected. Bordering on elderly. It is more retirees that travel at this time of the year which is definitely what we prefer.
Es Port Hotel
The hotel rooms were relatively basic in both our Port de Soller hotels tbh as the value is more in the location, setting, and breakfast for both. The spas as well although we didn’t get time to indulge at the Marina Hotel. And while the Marina Hotel had perfect beachfront views, the Es Port Hotel is inland with further sea views and a backdrop of craggy mountains. It also has amazing gardens and one of the most beautiful settings I have found in a hotel/resort in a long time.
While tourists are more drawn to beachfront destinations, I prefer the opposite, escaping away to more rustic settings with olive gardens and fancy old fincas in the back hills. Therefore the Es Port Hotel, a 17th century manor house centered around an old olive oil mill, is perfect for me. The property itself dotted with pools and ponds, cacti and date palms, pomegranate trees, lemon and limes, flowers of all colours. But my main fascination was with the ancient cragged olive trees. Full details here.
Tram to Soller (Tranvía de Sóller)
It is hard to miss the vintage trams chugging back-and-forth through the day along the seafront stretch of Port de Soller. They’re kind of iconic in the region and have connected Port de Sóller with the charming town of Soller in the Tramuntana mountains since the early 1900s. It’s about 4-km between the two. Anyway, we jump on the trams for a nostalgic journey “boop boop” through orange and citrus groves towards the lush, green hills of the Tramuntana mountains. It’s definitely the highlight of our stay here. Official website here.
Soller to Palma by Train (Tren De Soller)
Our next destination is Palma Nova and to get there we first travel to Palma de Mallorca. There are obviously quicker, cheaper, and simpler routes between Port de Soller and Palma (the bus) but the train from Soller is an attraction in itself and was another highlight of our time in Mallorca (full details here). Again it starts with the trams to Soller where we then connect to the main train line to Palma via the main ticket office. Tickets are bought on the day and the ticket office can be busy so it’s best not to rush the connection.
So the train departs from Soller and takes roughly 1 hour and 15 minutes covering a distance of about 27 kilometers so it is a leisurely ride. There are also a couple of stops to consider with the charming villages of Bunyola and (maybe) Son Sardina along the way. Otherwise it’s all about the scenery, the picturesque valleys, the olive groves and citrus orchards, and the stunning Serra de Tramuntana mountain range before reaching the center of Palma.
Palma Nova
There are 72 daily buses between Palma de Mallorca Airport and Palma Nova given it is one of the bigger resort destinations in Mallorca. Otherwise, for those travelling from elsewhere (like us taking trams/trains from Port de Soller as above) there will likely be a connection at the main interchange Estació d’Espanya station in Palma. This is a rather massive underground bus terminal servicing every corner of the island.
Of course there is always the option of local taxis and Uber but they are pricey and public transport is easy to use in Mallorca. From the airport tickets are normally bought in advance at the station. For public buses you will often need to scan your cash card when boarding the front of the bus then again when exiting at the middle doors of the bus. This is to indicate which stop you disembark otherwise you’ll be paying to the final stop.
First Impressions of Palma Nova
Our hotel overlooks Banana Joe’s where there are promos for pints of Fu*kin Mental, Spunky Donkey, Mad Monster, or Turbo Shandy. “GET YOUR COCKTAIL IN A BIG WILLY!” It’s an establishment VIZ would be proud of. They also do the best kebab in town, obviously. Just round a bit is Roger’s Snack Bar with bright neon lights, flashy cocktails, knickerbocker glories, and a mini carrousel to put the kids on while the grown ups are getting smashed.
So there is this quaint, kitschy 80s seaside theme going on which feels kind of nostalgic alongside the giant inflatables and smell of Ambre Solaire at the souvenir shops. At the same time, there is a lot of contemporary and new gen appeal with trendy bars and restaurants and there’s just something for everybody along the main stretch of Palma Nova. I grab a bottle of Buckfast (€9.95) from the nearby Spar (Andy’s) and then it’s back to the hotel balcony.
Tent Palma Nova Hotel
I’m not sure if I would recommend this hotel (full details here) but it is an example of what to expect. It was fine for us. We probably paid above the norm as well compared to package holidays in these areas (£150 per night) opting for a boutique branded resort, adults only, just a minute or so from the beachfront. Here we find a comparatively youthful crowd to our previous stays in Port de Soller yet it’s definitely not a young rowdy crowd either. Maybe due to it being September when the kids and students are back to school.
“You’ve booked relaxation, design, comfort, freedom, and unlimited brunch from 8am to 1:30pm.” Bottomless brunches seem to be a common perk with the resorts in Mallorca which I guess is due to those rolling back in the early hours with little chance of waking for breakfast in the morning. It’s more or less a buffet breakfast meaning I could sit pretty much 5 hours straight munching hash browns and sausage by the pool. But instead we hop on a bus to go check out a further-flung beach.
The Local Beaches
Palma Nova spoils you for beaches with all your usual beach stuff going on like volley ball and jet skis and beach stuff. We didn’t really do any of it ourselves but Fanfan did consider going for a dip while I was more tempted to join a group of old folk playing pétanque nearby. It was the same with the hotel swimming pool which we called to in the early evening only to last less than 5-minutes before retreating for wine on the balcony. “Why do people sit at the pool?”
Fanfan instead searches for more secluded off the beaten path beach options which brings us to Cala Punta Negra found just a handful of stops down from Palma Nova on the bus. It did seem a simple attraction to find only the usual entrance was blocked leading us to climb along a craggy coastal route from a lane by the side of the St Regis hotel. On one side is the beautiful aquamarine seas, the other is pine forests, cacti and the endless drone of randy cicadas.
Paella and Sangria (Barbuda Beach Restaurant)
We found with restaurants in Port de Soller that the best tables need to be reserved well in advance. Something we should have taken note of before trying to tick paella off of our must-eat list. Here it was kind of a coin toss between “My Tapas” and “Barbuda Beach Restaurant” with the latter winning due to seafront views and it’s a short 4-min walk from our hotel. Problem is the entire restaurant front is reserved with only limited space at the bar?
Fortunately we are always out early (18:30) for sunset (20:00) and one of the seafront tables isn’t reserved until later (20:30). So we manage to wangle a 2-hour slot at a beachfront table with enough time for sangria and seafood paella. Normally for a proper paella it takes 20-25 minutes to prepare and it’s for 2 or more people. At most places in Mallorca it costs roughly €20 per person (€21 at Barbuda) so it is kind of a one off. The same goes for a jug of sangria (€18) which I would forever swap for a decent Rioja or Tempranillo wine.
Palma de Mallorca
After 2-nights in Palma Nova we take the bud back again to Palma de Mallorca, now our 3rd visit to the capital city of both Mallorca and the Balearic Islands, although previous were only in passing (en route to Port de Soller and Palma Nova). So this time we have plans for a longer 2-night stay in/around the old town area of Palma (aka El Casco Antiguo) where it’s just a short walk to find all the city’s main attractions.
Palma Old Town (First Impressions)
We spend half our time in Thailand meaning we’re not new to beaches and 30 degree heats. In fact I spend most my time avoiding them given I hate flapping about in flip flops while covered in sweat. Instead I prefer the conveniences and comforts of city life like in Palma with its breezy boulevards, cobbled alleys, sheltered squares, and air conditioned malls. I simply prefer to be comfortable when I travel.
So we find a more cosmopolitan vibe in Palma old town arriving to our hotel (Hotel Saratoga) surrounded by tall trees, manicured gardens, towering monuments and parks. The clientele are also fairly well heeled so I feel a bit off when rolling into the foyer with my sweaty t-shirt and beat up suitcase. But I’m used to it. The hotel is more upscale than previous (4*) but similar in price thanks to Fanfan’s frugal reservation skills. And while it was probably 50-50 “tops off” previously on the streets of Palma Nova you’d probably get thrown out here.
The Hotel Saratoga
I honestly hadn’t slept well since arriving to Mallorca with ‘deep sleep’ in the red every morning. More so in Palma Nova with the noise both outside and inside the resort. So Hotel Saratoga is exactly what we had missed with keycard operated lifts, sound proof balcony doors, blackout curtains, and, most of all, a proper blanket. Since arriving to Mallorca the blankets have been more like thin sheets, a local thing maybe, and nothing beats a proper padded blanket and decent air con. But we were drawn originally by the rooftop bar with views over the old city. Full details here.
Hospitality does seem a bit off in comparison to the 4* standards we’ve found elsewhere (Thailand and Asia at least). Check-out for example when we were stuck queuing behind groups being processed for check-in 4-hours later instead of them prioritizing the time sensitive check-out process. We ended up forced to rush the queue or risk missing our onward flights. Then the receptionist gets all huffy. Don’t get me started on the wait for pool towels… So a bit of patience is needed even in the fancier of establishments here.
Tapas and Drinks
Anyway, we were also arrived early for hotel check-in so we dumped the bags at reception before exploring the local area. This brings us towards the seafront through picturesque parks lining the Torrente de la Riera (River Torrent) passing a market promoting/selling local produce like cheese, cold cuts, tapas, truffles. A giant Valencia paella. I would normally be nibbling away at these markets but really we just needed a seat as we waited for the phone call for check-in from the hotel.
So we continue to find a local square right next to the historic Llotja de Palma with a string of local cafes. Here we tick off another important Spanish staple, a tapas set, including common tapa bites such as meatballs in sauce (albondigas), chicken wings, chicken croquettes, dates in bacon (Dátiles Rellenos), chorizo sausage and boiled potatoes in alioli (Patatas alioli). Paired with local drinks and a truly romantic setting. But they didn’t serve the sangria in big willies like Banana Joes.
Mallorca Cathedral (La Seu)
All roads lead to the Mallorca Cathedral. At least this is how it feels as we continually find ourselves lost in Palma’s backstreets only to end up at the cathedral. It is hard to miss as well given it’s the main attraction and postcard picture of all Mallorca. We found ourselves there 4 or 5 times once when lost in the surrounding cobbled backstreets and twice in the evening listening to the musician at the waterside plaza beneath the walls. Again Palma is a truly romantic city.
Anyway, also known as the Catedral-Basílica de Santa María de Mallorca, or the Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma, or the Cathedral of St. Mary of Palma, or just Le Seu for short (it has a lot of names). It is possible to tour the interiors of the actual cathedral (official website booking here), which is something we had planned to do, but crowds. Our itinerary was fairly rushed as well so I would maybe give an extra day or to to maybe join the hop-on hop-off tours of Palma. Otherwise we just pottered around the old city and the fancy seafront marina at sunset.
Our Mallorca Itinerary in September?
In hindsight, if we did make changes to the itinerary, we’d maybe just book the one night in Palma Nova (or none) and add the extra to Palma itself. As I do regret not joining the hop-on hop-off tour or at least ticking off some of the wider attractions in the area. Otherwise I feel we covered Mallorca fairly well considering the time we had. Otherwise we’re happy to move onto the next destination, and after checking out from Palma we’re flying next to Malaga for a road trip in Andalusia, Southern Spain and Portugal (to come).
How Much Did we Spend per Day in Mallorca?
Spending was simple to track using our multi-currency cards (TransferWise similar to Revolut) by converting Euros beforehand in the app then paying in the local currency. We used one card (Fanfan’s) for eating out then my own for random purchases along the way. The hotels we had mostly booked/paid for online in advance. Thankfully we only needed to withdraw cash once (€60) as the ATM fees are a rip-off across the board and even the local buses accepted cash cards.
So we stayed 6-nights in Mallorca spending 2-nights in the 3 different areas where each hotel stay was slightly more or less expensive than others. I will break it down below to show where the money goes but in total I can say we spent roughly £1588 For 6 nights in Mallorca averaging £265 per night. Flights not included.
Hotels (6 nights total): £1077
Eating Out (€280): £245
Miscellaneous (€306): £266
Total for 6-nights in Mallorca (not including flights): £1588
Average Spending per Night: £265
Hotel Prices in Mallorca in September?
We booked all our hotels in advance on booking.com with free cancellation for most of them. We prioritized location, customer reviews, and, of course, price. The hotels range from night to night (£150 – £217) in total coming to £1077. This was before tourist taxes which were roughly £3 per person per night so add on another £36 (we include this in miscellaneous below).
Hotels range (£150 – £217 per night) in total coming to £1077
Hotels averaged around (£180) per night before tourist tax.
How Much for Eating Out in Mallorca?
We were fairly inconsistent when it came to eating out as hotel stays included buffet breakfasts and we often skipped lunch in favour of wine and nibbles on the balcony after exploring (this under miscellaneous). But we did always have a decent meal out in the evening, and, in total, we spent £245. This was more for 5 days however as we arrived late in the first night and had a hotel breakfast on the last morning.
Eating out over 5-days in total cost €280 (£245)
Eating out averaged around €56 (£50)
Miscellaneous Spending
These were just the random spendings along the way like grabbing snacks and drinks from minimarts/supermarkets. Then there was travel and transit including €36 for the train to Palma and we made one €60 cash withdrawal. These costs do add up. I have again given an average of 5-days given we arrived late the first night and left early the final morning.
Miscellaneous (€306): £266
Average per Day: £53